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How To Choose Climbing Shoes: A Beginner’s Guide

So, you’re hooked on climbing! You’ve conquered the rental shoes and are ready to invest in your own pair. But walking into a climbing shop can be overwhelming. So many shapes, sizes, and price points! Choosing the right climbing shoes can be the difference between sending your project and slipping off the wall. This guide will break down the process of how to choose climbing shoes, making it easier to find the perfect fit for your climbing style and skill level.

Step-by-Step Guide: How To Choose Climbing Shoes

Let’s dive into the key steps you should consider when selecting your first (or next!) pair of climbing shoes. We’ll cover everything from understanding shoe types to getting the right fit.

1. Determine Your Climbing Style and Experience Level

Before you even think about brands or colors, consider your climbing style. Are you mostly bouldering indoors? Do you prefer long multi-pitch routes? Or are you just starting out and focusing on top-roping?

• Beginner Climbers: Focus on comfort and all-around performance. Look for flatter soles and moderate downturns.
• Intermediate Climbers: Start exploring shoes with a slight downturn for better edging and steeper terrain.
• Advanced Climbers: Aggressive downturns, specialized features, and sensitive soles are the name of the game.

2. Understand Climbing Shoe Types

Climbing shoes come in a variety of shapes, each designed for specific purposes. Understanding these types is crucial to how to choose climbing shoes effectively.

• Neutral/Flat Shoes: These are the most comfortable and forgiving. Great for beginners and long routes where comfort is key.
• Moderate Shoes: A good balance of comfort and performance, with a slight downturn for better edging. Ideal for intermediate climbers.
• Aggressive Shoes: Heavily downturned with a pointed toe. Designed for steep, overhanging routes and precise footwork.

3. Consider Closure Systems

The closure system affects how easily you can adjust your shoes and how securely they fit. There are three main types:

• Laces: Offer the most precise and customizable fit. Great for all-day comfort and adjusting to different foot shapes.
• Velcro Straps: Easy to take on and off, perfect for bouldering or quick gym sessions. Less adjustable than laces.
• Slippers: No laces or straps, just a snug fit. Ideal for bouldering and crack climbing where sensitivity is important.

4. Finding the Right Fit: The Most Important Step

This is arguably the most important aspect of how to choose climbing shoes. A poorly fitting shoe will hinder your performance and can even cause foot problems.

• Try them on in person: Sizes vary significantly between brands and models. Don’t rely solely on your street shoe size.
• Wear climbing socks: Thin climbing socks will affect the fit. If you plan to wear socks, bring them with you.
• Feel for pressure points: Check for any areas where the shoe is pinching or rubbing uncomfortably.
• Consider the “dead space”: You want minimal dead space around your toes, but not so tight that your toes are curled excessively.
• Walk around and mimic climbing movements: See how the shoes feel when you’re standing on your toes.

5. Material Matters: Leather vs. Synthetic

The material of the shoe upper will affect its stretch, breathability, and overall feel.

• Leather: Stretches more than synthetic, molds to your foot over time, and is generally more breathable.
• Synthetic: Stretches less, retains its shape better, and is often vegan-friendly.

6. Sole Stiffness and Rubber Type

The sole stiffness affects how much support the shoe provides, while the rubber type determines its grip. Softer rubber is generally stickier but wears down faster.

• Stiff Soles: Provide more support and are better for edging. Ideal for beginners and long routes.
• Soft Soles: Offer more sensitivity and are better for smearing. Preferred by experienced climbers for steep terrain.

Tips for Making Better Choices

Here are a few extra tips to help you make the best decision when figuring out how to choose climbing shoes:

• Read reviews: See what other climbers have to say about specific models.
• Ask for advice: Talk to experienced climbers or staff at your local climbing shop.
• Don’t be afraid to try different brands: Each brand has its own unique fit and feel.
• Consider your budget: Climbing shoes can range in price. Don’t feel pressured to buy the most expensive pair.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Choosing Climbing Shoes

Avoid these common pitfalls to ensure you’re happy with your purchase:

• Buying shoes that are too small: While climbing shoes should fit snugly, they shouldn’t be excruciatingly painful.
• Ignoring your foot shape: Some shoes are better suited for narrow feet, while others are better for wide feet.
• Choosing shoes based on looks alone: Performance and fit should always be the priority.
• Not breaking in your shoes: Climbing shoes often need a few sessions to break in and mold to your feet.
• Assuming one pair of shoes will do everything: As you progress, you may want to invest in different shoes for different climbing styles.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Here are some frequently asked questions about selecting climbing shoes:

Q: How tight should climbing shoes be?

A: Climbing shoes should fit snugly without being painful. Your toes should be touching the end of the shoe, but not curled excessively.

Q: Can I wear socks with climbing shoes?

A: Generally, it’s best to wear thin climbing socks or no socks at all for maximum sensitivity. However, if you prefer socks, make sure to try on shoes with them.

Q: How long do climbing shoes last?

A: The lifespan of climbing shoes depends on how often you climb and the type of rubber. Resoles can extend the life of your shoes.

Q: How do I clean my climbing shoes?

A: Wipe them down with a damp cloth after each use and avoid storing them in direct sunlight or heat.

Q: What does “downturn” mean in climbing shoes?

A: Downturn refers to the curvature of the sole. Shoes with a more aggressive downturn are better for steep climbing.

Conclusion: Finding Your Perfect Climbing Shoe

Choosing climbing shoes can seem daunting, but by understanding the different types, closure systems, and fit considerations, you can find the perfect pair to elevate your climbing. Remember to prioritize comfort, performance, and fit. Don’t rush the process, and don’t be afraid to ask for help. Happy climbing!

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